Understanding Photos in the HERO4

HERO4 Series
New Features of the HERO4
Understanding Video in the HERO4
Understanding Photos in the HERO4

The HERO4 brings a whole new set of customized settings for photos, as well as new controls for long exposure photos and time lapses. If you want to learn what each of the new settings do and when to use them, you’ll be able to dial in better looking photos right away. All of the following modes & information are available on both the HERO4 Black & Silver.


Resolution & FOV

The HERO4 is capable of shooting up to 12MP photos in a wide FOV (same as HERO3+). There are a few options such as 7MP Medium, and 5MP Wide & Medium; however, they are all derivatives of the full 12MP Wide photo. With that in mind, it makes sense to always keep it in 12MP Wide, since you’re not gaining anything using the alternatives. The only time you may want to utilize the lower resolutions is if you’re concerned with SD card capacity, or you don’t know how to crop photos in post (for the medium FOV).

ProTune for Photos in the HERO4

We’ve had ProTune available for video for a few years, and GoPro has brought the same flexibility to photo modes. When you enable ProTune in the photo settings it’ll open up some of the customizable settings you’re used to seeing in DSLR cameras. You can control white balance, color profile, ISO limit, sharpening, and exposure compensation.

White Balance
White balance basically determines the color temperature of your photos (cool to warm).  By default this is set to Auto which generally does a good job in all conditions. To lock off the color temperature, you can set this to the different Kelvin values between 3000K & 6500K. 3000K will cast your footage blue relative to neutral, while 6500K is quite warm/yellow compared to neutral. Lastly is a setting called ‘Native’ which won’t apply any WB correction matrix. If you’re going to change this setting, using the app or a screen helps quite a bit.

Color Profile
This controls the overall color/contrast look of your photos. It has two options: Flat & GoPro Color. The ‘Flat’ profile produces an image with less contrast and saturation and is intended to be used with color correction tools. ‘GoPro Color’ is what you’re used to seeing out of a GoPro – it has standard color and contrast.

ISO Limit
This sets a cap on how high the auto ISO will go. ISO is basically how much digital lightness is added to the photo. You can set the limit from 800 (lighter with more grain) all the way down to 100 (darker with less grain). Most of the time this setting will only take effect in low light or at night; during the day the GoPro stays hovering around ISO 100.

Digital sharpening has always been added to photos to have the appearance of being sharper and more appealing straight out of the camera. Typically, if you manually add your sharpening later, you’ll have a higher quality image. Now you have the ability to set the level of added digital sharpening. I leave this at low as I think it produces cleaner looking photos.

Exposure Compensation
The last setting in ProTune is Exposure Compensation which lets you tell the camera to always be slightly lighter or darker than normal.  By default it’s set to 0. If you set the exposure compensation to +2.0, the photos will be 4 times brighter than normal.  Similarly if you set it to -2.0 they will be 4 times darker than normal. Careful when adjusting this – there’s no indication on the UI once it’s set – be sure to check this value regularly if you’re prone to changing it now and then. I keep this at 0 for most things. On occasion if it’s a varied scene with a mixture of bright highlights and dark shadows, dropping it to -0.5 can help save some highlights. If you’re having trouble getting short exposure durations (lots of blur in motion), experiment with dropping this lower so the camera isn’t trying to achieve such a high level of auto-exposure. This setting is deactivated for fixed exposure times in Night Photo/Lapse

Abe’s Go-To ProTune Settings for Daytime Activities:

White Balance: Auto
Color Profile: GoPro
ISO Limit: 800
Sharpening: Low
Exposure Compensation: 0 or -0.5

Abe’s Go-To ProTune Settings for Night Photos:

White Balance: 5500K
Color Profile: GoPro
ISO Limit: 200 or 400
Sharpening: Low
Exposure Compensation: 0

Long Exposure & Night Photo/Lapse

You now have the ability to shoot photos with exposures up to 30 seconds, opening up a whole new world of photo and time-lapse possibilities! This is something GoPro media member Kevin Custer and I personally worked hard to define and push into the HERO4 so I’m extremely happy it’s working well and getting great use.

Left – Lapse from Auto Exposure, WB 5500K, ISO 200
Right – Lapse from 2 sec Exposure, WB 3000K, ISO 200

Normally when you’re shooting during the day, a photo exposure is between 1/8000th of a second and around 1/60th of a second (really fast). When you manually tell the camera to expose longer, it’s keeping the sensor “open” and receiving light for long periods of time. This means you can capture movement changing over time in a single photo. This is most usually seen at night with fast moving cars or people with flashlights creating words or shapes in the air; however, you can shoot long exposure photos during the day if you have the proper tools. You’ll need a neutral density (ND) filter. It’s basically sunglasses for lenses allowing the camera to expose for longer periods without receiving too much light. Examples of daytime long exposure shots are most often seen as waterfalls, creeks, or ocean waves that look smooth and airy.

Night Photo – Auto Exp, WB 5500K, ISO 400

There are two ways to capture long exposure photos in the HERO4: Night Photo and Night Lapse. Night photo is a sub-mode of the single photo bucket on the HERO4; night-lapse is a sub-mode of the multi-shot bucket. Keep in mind: the settings you’ve applied in single photo get applied to night photo, while the settings for multi-shot apply to night lapse. The two modes are very similar but have slightly different parameters.

Night Photo

The exposure time on Night Photo is set to auto by default. In auto, it’ll expose from 1/4096th of a second up to 2 seconds. This means you can use this mode for regular photos as well! For more customized photos, you can manually set the exposure to 2 sec, 5, 10, 20, & 30 sec. Coupled with the WiFi or App remote, this mode could be great for stop-motion long exposure video creation!

Night Lapse

Night Lapse mode allows you to set two things: exposure time and interval time (time between shots).

Exposure Time
Exposure time is set to auto by default, with exposures ranging from 1/4096th sec to 2 sec. One thing to note is auto will expose properly during the day as well, so this mode can be used to create lapses that go from day to night or vice versa. You can set exposures manually at 2 sec, 5, 10, 20, and 30 sec.

Interval Time
Interval time is set to continuous by default – this means the next photo will start exposing directly after the previous photo finishes exposing. There is a small delay between shots for processing. For example, if you set the exposure time to 20 seconds, each photo will be about 21 seconds apart. Having a continuous interval allows you to capture almost all of the light being emitted in any single duration. You can also manually set the duration between photos to 4 sec, 5, 10, 30, 60 sec, 30 min, 60 min.  Interval times are independent of exposure times, meaning the exposure starts on the beginning of the interval, and must finish within that interval. You’re forced to choose an exposure time that is less than the interval time. 30 and 60 minutes can be used for filming long duration things like plants growing, buildings being constructed, or snow melting. Use these modes with the camera in a very static place plugged in via USB. You’ll want to use auto exposure since photos will be happening both during the day and at night.


Utilizing ProTune Settings for Night Capture

Both single night photo and night lapse are strongly affected by ProTune settings, if enabled. The 2 main settings you’ll want to play with are White Balance, and ISO Limit. I strongly recommend dialing in your settings while utilizing a screen, either on the camera, or with the GoPro App. Take a few test photos while changing settings around.

White balance is an important setting to play with since in most situations you can’t really see what color temperature the ambient light is. For the most part, 5500K is a neutral color that will give you a consistent color over your photos; however I recommend tinkering with it within each scene if you have the time. With ISO, if you have a low limit set during low light capture (with auto exposure set), the camera will still do what it can to auto expose to the proper lightness; it’ll look to exposure time to make up for the lack of light, elongating the shutter time (giving more blurry photos if in motion). During full night star capture is when this setting really comes into play – see what grain level is acceptable for the light trade off, and experiment with a few different ISO settings.

Testing WB, ISO, & Exposure timing is key for night photo/lapse – Here you can see the progression

Recommended Exposure Uses

  • Auto (1/4096th Sec – 2 Sec)
    This has a wide variety of uses, from normal daytime photos all the way up to decent night city photos. Best uses are Day to night transition lapses, camp fires, city lights, city-freeway driving, fireworks, & light painting. You can also try utilizing this during high motion activities during the day with or without an ND filter. It will help to have something static in the frame relative to the camera so the background blurs by, such as car/motorcycle mounted.
  • 2 Seconds
    This is great for city lights, freeway driving, fireworks, light painting, thunderstorms.
  • 5 Seconds
    5 seconds will work for most things that 2 seconds does well; however, you can utilize a lower ISO setting to get cleaner and darker footage. This is great for darker city shots, more rural roads, fireworks, light painting, thunderstorms, camping.
  • 10 Seconds
    10 seconds is the first threshold that becomes better in darker situations. City lights will be on the verge of too bright. This is great for full moon night shots, brighter stars, camping.
  • 15 Seconds
    Similar to 10 seconds, this is for a dark cityscape, or a light landscape (full moon). Utilize what worked well in 10 seconds but with lower ISO.
  • 20 Seconds
    20 seconds is where we’ll be picking up decent stars. This is great for dark landscapes, star lapses, night ocean tides, etc. Experiment with different ISO to get the best trade off of light and grain.
  • 30 Seconds
    If you’re in a dark area and want to capture stars, 30 seconds is the way to go. This is also great for dark light painting where you want to have the most amount of time to draw your shapes.

Single Shot, Continuous, Burst, Time Lapse

Taking photos during the day is pretty straight forward with a GoPro. There’s a couple ways to go about taking photos and there are a few nuances between modes that could be helpful to know when shooting. Also, the HERO4 has a subtle increase in processing speeds of single photos, continuous, and burst photos.

Panorama taken with Continuous Photo while turning around slowly – Stitched together with Bridge & Photoshop

Single Shot

This mode is your basic camera: one press of the shutter will snap one photo. The camera is able to expose for up to 1/2 second in this mode. Generally single shot and continuous will produce photos that are a slightly higher quality when compared against burst, or time lapse photos. After you hit the shutter button, the first beep indicates the photo being taken, while the second beep indicates it’s done processing and has saved to the SD card. When comparing the processing/save time to HERO3+, the HERO4 does it in about 1/2 sec, whereas the HERO3+ takes around 1 second.


Continuous is a sub-mode of the single shot bucket so ProTune & photo settings for single shot will apply. In continuous, if you hold down the shutter, it will take photos until you release (or reach the 30 photo limit). If you use continuous with the WiFi remote or app, it acts more like time lapse where you press record to start capturing at the rate you’ve set. It’ll go until you either hit stop or reach the 30 photo limit. For example, if you set it to continuous with 3 FPS, it’ll run for 10 seconds capturing 3 photos per second, when initiated with the app.


This mode allows for ultra high frame-rate capture – up to 30 photos in 1 second. Previously, with HERO3+ once a burst was finished capturing, it took around 8-9 seconds to process and save to the SD card. During this time the camera is inactive and busy processing. With the HERO4, the time is reduced to between 5-6 seconds for 30/1, and 3-4 seconds for 30/3! This is huge for using burst multiple times consecutively and quickly during activities like skiing. Also, previously when the record button was pressed it took around 1 second before it would start bursting – with HEOR4 it is almost instant.

30 Photos in 3 Seconds – Fired with WiFi remote in Hand.

I most often use burst in combination with the WiFi remote, with the duration/rate set to 30 photos in 3 seconds. This allows me to do a fast action activity and capture the perfect moment.  If access to the remote or shutter button is more difficult, I look to time lapse to capture photos during my activities.

Time Lapse

Time Lapse mode has two main functions – capturing photos during activities, and creating time lapses.

Capturing Photos with Time Lapse
For most users, time lapse mode is the go-to method of capturing photos. When you press the shutter button it will start capturing photos at the rate you specify until you hit the shutter button to stop it. For general every-day photos & selfies, I recommend using 0.5 photos/sec (2 photos per second), taking around 5 sec worth of photos. This way you’re able to start the recording, get the camera steady and hold a pose for a few seconds. You’re likely to get a few options in the middle that are crisp.

If you’re doing any sort of activity where you’re trying to pick up fast action or where things are changing quickly, using the quickest rate is best at 0.5 photos/sec. When it’s less important to capture a specific moment in time but you still want a few photos of your activity, bumping it up to photos every 2 sec or 5 sec can be used. This way you can later choose specific photos from general ‘sections’ of your activity without having to sift through thousands of photos.

.5 Second Interval
Uses: Either fast action activities where you’d like to capture a very small specific moment in time, or basic handheld photos for the every-day. Fast action examples are surfing, advanced skiing (freestyle & park), downhill mountain biking.

2, 5 Second Interval
Uses: Slower going activities without specific moments you’re trying to capture. Scenic drive (auto or moto), slow paddle board, hiking, horseback riding, trail biking.

One last factor to consider is exposure time: 0.5 sec & 1 sec intervals allow for exposures up to 1/5 of a second. When you jump to 2 sec intervals and above, it will allow for exposures up to 1/2 sec. If you’re doing an activity where you’d like to capture motion blur, 2 sec mode will help significantly, but not to the extreme of using night lapse.

Once you know what sort of duration to use, experiment with the ProTune settings to dial in your photos. If you’d like to push the exposure time longer for increased motion blur, lowering the ISO limit may help. Reversely, if you’re noticing significant motion blur where you’d rather have cleaner/crisper shots, try lowering the exposure compensation. By lowering the overall AE target, the camera will be exposing for less time to reach a darker (but less blurry) image.

Capturing Time Lapses with Time Lapse
The GoPro is a very powerful tool for capturing stunning lapses! Setting up the proper interval time is as easy as knowing a rough estimate of how long you’re going to capture the lapse for. Once you’ve captured photos, GoPro Studio makes it incredibly easy to stitch together as a video. You simply drag and drop either the whole folder, or one single photo, and it’ll auto-recognize the rest of the photos that belong with it and build the lapse. Also, you can easily speed up a time lapse in editing so I have a tendency to shoot shorter intervals, giving me padding to speed up or slow down in post if I need.

0.5 Sec Interval:  30 Min – 1 Hr Record Duration
   1 Sec Interval:  30 Min – 1 Hr Record Duration
   2 Sec Interval:  1 Hr – 2 Hr Record Duration
   5 Sec Interval:  2 Hr – 4 Hr Record Duration
 10 Sec Interval: > 4 Hr Record Duration

For the most part, tinkering with ProTune settings for photos beyond getting your desired photo look (color, sharpness) isn’t necessary. Auto white balance usually does a great job all around for most photos. If you’re doing a time lapse that could benefit from the white balance not changing over time, feel free to lock it off at a certain color temp.

Check out GoPro photos I’ve taken: GoPro Photo Stream



New Features of the HERO4

Understanding Video in the HERO4

GoPro Photo Shooting Tips

  • Constantin Miranda

    Hey Abe! Loved these posts. 2 primary questions.

    1. Is there a reason you choose to set a specific Kelvin value or use Auto for the White Balance instead of simply using RAW? I don’t have a Hero4 (yet…) but it seems like it would get tedious to take a test shot, check it, adjust the value, and the take another test shot. Wouldn’t it be simpler to just shoot in RAW and then correct it later? Is the GoPro’s RAW functionality limited/not as good as a DSLR’s?

    2. How does GoPro’s media division choose people to hire? I am only in high school now, so this is more of a question out of curiosity. Is it more of a skill-set sort of deal, as in you guys are simply looking for people who know how to use a GoPro, use software, and are creative? Or does GoPro look for people out of film school trained as cameramen or editors? Possibly a mix of both? Being in high school, I have to make a huge decision on what I want to pursue: what I love to do or what I know I can get a steady job in. I would really appreciate any insight you have into this.

    Thanks Again

    • 1. GoPro does not have a ‘raw’ as you are thinking from a DSLR. There’s a ‘native’ white balance but that’s very different from a raw photo file. It’s also not very tedious if you’re using the app to take and view your test shots… it’s pretty quick to swap settings and see what you’re shooting.
      2. We choose a mix of both, but ultimately a portfolio of really high end and creative works can help wonders in hiring someone.

      • Constantin Miranda

        Thanks for the reply

    • The HERO4 brings a whole new set of customized settings for photos, as well as new controls for long exposure photos and time lapses. If you want to learn what each of the new settings do and when to use them, you’ll be able to dial in better looking photos right away. All of the following modes & information are available on both the HERO4 Black & Silver.

  • Rayanio

    You are a Gopro God. Thanks for the very informative posts Abe. Been waiting for you to update your page for a while 🙂 . Looking forward to a video where you do some color correcting/grading on one of those photos using Photoshop.

  • tenikis

    abe, thanks so much for getting these new NL/TL options added. opens up so many new possibilities for creative time lapse stuff, its re-invented the cam for me (and others im sure!)

  • Paul MacLeod

    Just reading the section titled ‘Utilizing ProTune Settings for Night Capture’ and just wondering what you mean on teh final shot when it says ”Re-framed, Coored, Composite from 5 photos’.

    Did you just take 5 similar shots and kick about with them in Photoshop? Is this all you mean?

    • Since it was a time-lapse, all the background is the same – the only thing changing are the lights on the road. I took 5 photos, layered them in Photoshop and set the transfer mode to lighten – that way I’m adding all of the car lights from the other 4 photos, but changing nothing else.

  • Thomas Ciezar

    Great articles as always. When reviewing picture in the app are you able to see settings to adjust them? Exposure, WB… Is the aperture still always at f2.8, even if it doesn’t really matter due to the wide angle of the GoPro?

    Do you think about doing an article about workflow? From taking shoot to final export. Not necessarily how you edit everything but more how you organise files etc.

    • Yeah, you can adjust all the settings in the app. Aperture is always 2.8, correct. A workflow tutorial would be good!

  • Craig Belpedio

    Hi Abe, great article!

    Would you be able to elaborate on the nightlapse mode more? I’m interested in using it for night-to-day (and day-to-night) transitions. Do you find that with Protune on and the ISO set at 800 (according to the manual it’s the default) that using the “Auto” shutter speed works pretty well? I want the camera to be able to ramp the exposure up/down as the scene changes, but I don’t want to miss out on too much of the detail in the city/lights.

    Any tips? Thanks!

    • Hey Craig, I think it should be able to handle it fairly well. I’m not positive but give it a go!

  • Joao B

    I love this post. Lots of photography options that I wish were present in my Hero 3+. Would it be too hard to give some of those via firmware update? The processing power is there.. Then the only thing missing would be RAW images

    • Yes it’s true; however I don’t think they will port them backwards to HERO3+ unfortunately. Also HERO4 doesn’t have RAW

  • Pavel Mašek

    Nice article. Just shame there is not exposure bracketting. It would be simple as hell – just combination of existing Gopro features – exposure compensation and burst mode. Result would 3 photos we could use to create one HDR image in the post…

    • Yeah Pavel, that’s a great idea

      • ASDF

        That would be awesome. *wink wink nudge nudge*

      • Pavel Mašek

        I really hope that this feature will come with firmware update and we will not have to wait on GP4+ 🙂 Of course, it can be done manually but I guess it takes at least 10 seconds…

      • Joshua.Smyth

        Hey mate i got my go pro today and my photos are super bluury do you know why this is or how i can fix it??

    • nzswedespeed

      This and raw photos 🙂

  • Aaron

    Hey Abe, first of all – excellent write up. Thank you for sharing your personal tips and also giving a good article on protune for photos. There aren’t many out there yet. Just one question in regard to the ‘Color Profile’. In what case would you use the ‘Flat’ grading? Does it offer more flexibility in post editing?

    • Thanks! Flat will allow for more flexible post for sure. The highlights also come in a half stop underexposed I think.

      • Aaron

        Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it, and looking forward to seeing some more tutorials. Till then I will be experimenting with the protune settings :D.

  • Gerard

    I just picked up my hero4 black today and i did get the 2 second shutter option for a minute or two but now I am locked to only choosing 10, 15, 20, or 30.
    Is this a glitch in the software and I just have to wait for an update or how did you get the 2 second or 5 second shutter speed.

    Thanks for reading and thanks for posting all these tips.
    Been following you since the first hero vids. 5 years and counting!

  • greg

    Great article! when you made the night lapse video’s did you use video mode or have it on night-lapse mode?

  • Callum

    How do you set the exposure to 2 seconds?

  • Christian

    Great article! Very informative. I got the hero 4 silver and will be testing out the night lapse next week when I’m out in the woods. I want to do a night lapse of the cabin with a fire in the foreground and want to capture the stars. What would you recommend for the ISO setting or any other advice. Really enjoy reading your articles. Keep up the good work!

  • khangar00

    Great Article. For some reason, my Gopro 4 Silver takes really blurry photo, even as I am simply using a pole to take a selfie. Even small movement will make it blurry, do you have any tips or advice on this?

    • Good question – most of the time this is because you don’t have enough light. Are you taking photos inside or in the dark/sunset? If you are outside in the sun there shouldn’t be an issue.

      • Nicolai

        I wonder if there is any trick for taking good photos indor at evening and get rid of the blurry effects? (sorry my english)

  • Pingback: Feng Shui and Furniture Placement in Desk | DogHouse Sales()

  • Artem

    Hello, and thank you for the great info. There isn’t much info out there about taking photos with the GoPro so this is very helpful. What do you use to do post-production on the images? I just got my GoPro and shot some stuff in Native WB, Flat color, imported into Lightroom, hoping to be able to adjust WB, contrast, etc, but the adjustments looked terrible, as if I was working on a low-quality jpeg. I tried to tinker with the images in the GoPro Studio, and making the adjustments there was great because they behaved similarly to editing RAW in Lightroom, but to do that GoPro Studio had to convert the images to .mov which is confusing. If you could walk me through your post-production workflow that would be very helpful. Thanks again!

    • Hey Artem – weird to hear that the photos looked bad after you used lightroom. I use that occasionally or just camera raw and photoshop (which is essentially the same thing). Not sure how experienced you are with photo editing, but adjustments usually have to be pretty light to look good.

  • MѦX

    I can’t seem to update my camera, I’ve tried all the different ways possible, formatted my camera, and my 32gb SD card, what else is there?! I haven’t got the 2,5,10 second exposure plus everything else the update includes…

  • phil

    Awesome info. I got a hero 4 silver and also getting lots of blurry pictures

    • Thanks for the comment Phil. I recommend making sure you’re getting plenty of light for fast action photos. Sunlight will do the trick.

      • phil

        Thanks. Yeah in sunlight, its not a problem but in lowet light is it impossible to take a sharp picture? Would be nice if we could bump the iso up higher than 800.

  • Oat Vaiyaboon

    Question regarding your night lapse mode. I don’t think you can (or at least on my one i can’t) set it to have continue shooting mode in the night lapse mode. Continue shoot is only one single photo mode which you can not set the shutter speed. Please confirm

    • You need to update your firmware for your camera. You can either go to the support page at GoPro or do it through the App once you connect.

      • Oat Vaiyaboon

        Thanks Abe, didn’t expect you to reply this quickly. Planning to put my GP4 on the quad soon, have been using 3+ on it for a while.

  • Harshil Bhasin

    I just got the GoPro Hero 4 Black and as a first time user of the GoPro, I was looking for some good guidance. This article was perfect! Thank you so much! I would like to ask, for a setting like an indoor roller coaster where it is completely dark with bright lights (e.g. Space Mountain in Disneyland), what settings do you suggest is best to use?

    • That’s tough, you most likely won’t get clear shots unless the camera was fixed to something like the rollercoaster car. If it’s really dark, you’d have to use night photo, ISO 800, auto exposure or even 5 sec exposure. It’ll be realllly blurry.

  • Lucas Catania

    Hey Abe. Thanks for the information. However, when I take pictures with the hero 4 black in somewhat low light conditions (dusk), all my pictures came out really blurry and I had the camera stationary mounted on the 3-way mount. Any help?

    • Is your 3-way mount stationary? If your camera isn’t completely still and fixed statically, it will get blurry shots with low-light.

      • Desire Martinez

        Abe the same thing is happening to me. My 3-way mount was secured and not moving at all. How can i avoid that??? most of my Burst pics will be at dusk in a bseball stadium since i bought it just for my Son Baseball.

  • Shawn Parkin

    The addition of Pro Tune to still photos is great, and I am a fan of being able to set the ISO upper limit. But have there been discussions about setting the ISO lower limit, or setting a shutter speed lower limit? As you said, the camera likes to stay around ISO 100 during the day, but sometimes if there is enough light, but not a ton of light, it will stay at ISO 100, but the shutter speed will drop down to 1/30 or thereabouts to capture enough light. But then of course 1/30 is too slow for handheld. So I will get blurry shots, when if the camera was at ISO 400, it would have been fine. I would like to tell the camera not to go below ISO 400, for instance, or not below 1/60th.

    • I agree Shawn, we have chatted about adding in bracketing the ISO to address the issue you speak of – but nothing in the pipes yet that I know of. Stay tuned.

  • Conor C.

    Could you do a post on editing?

  • RStudio

    Hi Abe.

    In night Photo mode you said ” Coupled with the WiFi or App remote, this mode could be great for stop-motion long exposure video creation!

    Can you explain better how to create a real stop motion video with gopro ? exemple of stop motion film


    • You take a photo, move the object, take another photo, move the object, take another photo and so on. With the wifi remote, you won’t ever have to touch your camera so you could even use it to shoot yourself. Set it on the ground, aimed at you, click the wifi remote shutter, move, click it again, move again, click again, etc.

  • Justin Myers

    I still had a GoPro 2 and had been tempted to get the 3+
    when it came out. It looked fantastic and supports a better frame rate for
    smoother graphics while in the air. I hesitated though since I had other things
    to worry about until the new 4 came out. I got the update from Poc Network in
    my RSS about the Silver (source: http://pocinc.net/blog/product-reviews/review-gopro-hero4-silver-edition/
    ) and it caused a downwards spiral in looking at other reviews like this one.
    My best friend wound up getting one and I have played with his for a number of
    hours. Now I have one! Finally!!!

    Now I no longer pfffft at the fact that my GoPro 2 was limited
    on frame rate. So much difference while in the air and while goofing around on
    the ground. Soon to take it snowboarding which will be fun (it will catch me
    falling all over the frackin place). I am also going to try strapping it to my buddy’s guitar during their concert to see how it turns out 🙂

  • Kevin Taylor

    Awesome article, Abe! I have two quick questions:

    1. Are the file sizes compressed now? I seem to remember my Hero 3 being around 4.5-5mb for photos, but now with the Hero 4 Silver I’m showing about 1.8-2.5mb. Was this change to help with downloading via wi-fi/gopro app?

    2. What settings do you use for your Phantom 2? Right now I only have the Hero 4 Silver, but will be getting the Black pretty soon. I am using 1080p/60 for sunny days and 1080p/30 or 2.7k/30 for cloudy days (to allow more light in). I’m sure you use 4k/30, but do you ever use the video+photo mode to get some stills from the air?


  • David

    Hi Abe.. Thanks for all the amazing info.. Im very grateful.. One thing thats confusing me. My GoPro Hero4 black is only giving me the following options for night lapse intervals.. 15 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec, 60 sec, 2min, 5 min, 30 min and 60 min.. How is this possible? I want to take a sunrise, and i need shorter intervals.. Am i doing something wrong? thanks in advance

    • Hey David, there’s a firmware update to the camera you haven’t gotten yet. Head to the GoPro support page

  • Néstor Lares Iramain

    Hi Abe!! I had a Hero3 White, and I was really happy with it, So I got myself a Hero4 Silver. I’m not so happy any more. Now all my pictures (@Burst 30/3 and Time Lapse 0.5 secs) have that nasty motion bluur, and I can hardly get an action picture taken . . . Can you give me some tip here please!!! . . . . thanks a lot, and great post!!!

    • william odonnell

      It is only useful if you know how to use it, and the 4 series is slightly different to use than the 3 series. experiment around and you will get the hang of it.

  • Alex

    How can i prevent from getting blurred photos from my go pro 4 silver set at multi shot time-lapse setting at .05 intervals. Most photos are blurred. Never happen on my go pro 3 black

  • RStudio

    hi again Abe.

    You got to show how you do that panorama and how to Stitched together with Bridge & Photoshop please!!

    Another question , Do you use a tripod to do Continuous Photo while turning around slowly ?

  • Nicolai

    I wonder if there is any trick for taking good photos indor at evening and get rid of the blurry effects? (sorry my english) 😀

  • AL

    I can’t seem to take a photo that isn’t blurry w my hero 4 silver. Also, I can’t take a still shot while recording video. I thought you could hit the power button to do this. I want to be excited over this but as of now only frustrated. Please advise. Thanks!

  • Bianka Dos Santos Reis

    Hi, i just got the hero4, ALL my pics if my son moves or anyone moves, it comes out super Blury. what do i do???

  • Max

    Hi Abe, I would like to take pictures with a delay with my hero4. This function exists on hero3+ but I cannot find it on mine hero4. Can you give me some tip please? Thank you for your time !!!

  • Ness

    Hi….Hero4B…photo mode….
    Can we use MEDIUM WIDE with 12MP resolution?
    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

    • Jake Doran

      only in post, i believe. definitely in gopro studio. change import/conversion settings i think

      • hi guys. i got my gopro hero 4 silver 3 days ago, but after charging now i got this lines on my lcd screen..see attached file. does anybody experience this problem? thanks a lot

  • Ness

    GREAT job Abe….I just discovered your site….a site like urs is worth PAYING for…I’d be happy to make a small donation…


    1)In photo mode, why not leave my Hero4Black in NIGHT MODE all the time ?
    If I did this, what would be the down side (if any) vs. the regular photo mode?

    2)What is that white rubber squiggly thing that I found in the GP box?

    • LakerHockey4 .

      Hi Ness, to answer your second question, the white thing is a quick-release anti-vibration locking plug. It is a kind of extra security measure for the quick release system.

      • GoPro Guy

        It’s not a security measure… it’s to make the GoPro studier and not shaky when driving around or putting it on your motorcycle for example. It cancels the shaky sound your GoPro may make when going at high speed because of the wind. Hope this helps.

        • LakerHockey4 .

          I meant secure as in not moving. I probably should’ve worded that better. My apologies.

  • JJ – Boise

    The photos you have taken (in your photo stream) all look very sharp, even objects quite distant from the camera. I have a Hero 3+ and Hero 4 and distant objects in photos always look soft. I use 12 mp wide mode. Are you doing a lot of sharpening in post-processing of your photos?

  • Karolis

    Hi! Thanks for a great tutorial! I’ve tried shooting nightlapse like you did and it worked out quite well – here’s my result:


  • Eduardo M.

    Hello Abe, thank you very much for this great post series. I got my first ever GP for Christmas and I’m really excited to learn how to use it. I got the GP Hero 4 Silver. Would you mind sharing the software you use or you recommend for photo/video editing? I have created and posted my first video ever and I tried both GPStudio and iMovie and I have to say that I liked the end result with iMovie better, it has more transitions, auto adjustments, etc and it is also a bit easier to use.
    After seeing your photos I would have to say that might be using something else besides GPStudio, for example I haven’t been able to find how to do the 5 night photo composite and coloring like the one you have in this post, that shot is just stunning. so please at least give us a hint on the software used maybe even a post on photo/video editing like someone else suggested.
    Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.

    • Hey Eduardo! I pretty much always use Photoshop for my photo editing and Premiere for video. Mostly I am able to adjust what I need using the curves adjustment in Photoshop.

  • benbraun

    really interested in how you made that night capture using 5 photos. could you share your process?

  • Orcalona

    Dear Abe,
    I recently got a GoPro Hero 4 Silver for my upcoming trip to Norway (where I will be attempting to snorkel with orca’s

    • Awesome! Not sure if you already went but if not, Night lapse in auto shutter on continuous interval if you can see the aurora bright and clear with your naked eye. Otherwise use exposure times between 5 and 10 seconds typically with ISO around 200 or 400

  • Yahtzee

    @abekislevitz:disqus Generally speaking, what steps do you use to best post-process images in Photoshop after shooting in ProTune? A good amount of my images are showing up fairly flat (like the attached). I use your settings (except for a tad higher sharpening). Would GREATLY appreciate a reply. Thanks!

    • Hey! I usually pop photos into Photoshop and play with the curves a bit, that way I’m able to get a bit more contrast and drop the mid tones if needed.

    • Bessem Hamud

      Try using Adobe Lightroom instead of Photoshop. Besides the contrast, play with the Clarity, it will give a nice look!

    • savan

      Hey what protune settings did you use? WB, Color, ISO?

  • Ness

    Hero4Black…Photo mode…Is there any reason NOT to leave the camera photo mode setting in NIGHT mode ALL the time ?

  • @clove

    Wonderful article. I was wondering if you could explain the continuous mode “processing time” in night lapse a bit more. Is it avoidable? I’m doing a light painting project and the gaps caused by the processing time are noticeable. Wondering if there’s something I could do to fix or avoid. This image of five 2-second exposures is a good example of the processing time concern (zoom in to read): http://i.imgur.com/W2JsWFL.jpg. Any advice?

    • That’s really cool! Unfortunately the processing time is unavoidable in its current state.

  • ryan

    heloo.. i want to know about HERO 4 font.. do you know what font is it? or you have iamge of “HERO 4”.. please help.. thx

  • Geezmoz

    Fantastic article!! I used your recommended setting to do a night lapse and can’t be happier with the result. It actually turns out how I wanted it to be and saves to heaps of time fiddling around with different settings. Now I’m so excited to try out the rest of the tips you have provided.

    Have a look, any feedback from anyone here would be awesome.

  • JJ Jacquez

    Hi Abe, Today i have spent a few hours of my day reading over your posts on the new GoPro HERO4 black. between the video and the photo. I want to thank you for doing such a great job at explaining and breaking down every setting and usage for me and any other readers. I’m new to GoPro since i just got my first one this christmas but I’m not new to the photography terms and uses as i own a DSLR Canon and have learned from a friend who is a professional photographer. So i have learned a lot today on how to properly use my GoPro. I do still have one question? If i was using my pole and wanted to take just a photo of say me and friends how do I press the button without having to have my phone in my hand with the app on to take the photo? do I need to buy a remote instead? or is there a timer i can set like on a DSLR? Thank you once again.

    • Hey JJ, hopefully you’ve figured this out by now but I always just use the time lapse mode so I can press it to start and let it snap a few photos, then press it to stop. No remote needed.

  • Rox A

    I am leaving for an 18 day Grand Canyon rafting trip next month and would like to try and capture a night lapse of the stars with my new gopro4 …what would you suggest the best settings would be. any suggestions would be helpful

    • Hey Rox, hopefully not too late – I would use Night Lapse with a 20-30 second exposure with the interval on continuous.

  • Stoffel

    Abe for the first thing sorry for the BAD English ;-), i HOPE that you can help me on time. 18th feb i need to get my new tattoo a sleeve on my under arm. Now i got the new go pro hero 4 silver. And i hope you can tell me the perfect setting to make a time laps off this i need to do 4 sessions off 4 hours. Also i wanna know the best possition to make the timelaps wath i mean is in front of my arm, or the side off my arm. Friendly grts from Belgium.

  • sailingjacobe

    Is there a way to take long exposure shots in the day time with my Hero 4 Black? I like the night time one. But is there a way I can take them in the day time?

    • Yes, it’s not the easiest flow but if you get your hands on a strong ND filter (basically like sunglasses for the lens) it will be able to reduce light enough that the camera needs to expose for longer. You’d use night photo in auto and see what you get.

  • Don Wood

    Hello Abe,
    I would like to ask your recommendation for a time lapse sequence. There is a road construction project. So it will last several weeks, (or months). I thought that it would be really cool to capture this project. Any tips to make this happen?

    • Hey Don Wood! Hopefully not too late, but if you set the camera to night lapse you can have an interval up to 60 minutes. I would have it take a photo every 30 or 60 minutes and make sure the camera is plugged into the wall via USB where it can’t get bumped. That sounds awesome!

  • Fadil

    Great article, in-depth, one of a kind.

    However, if you explain how to deal with protune-set photos in GoPro Studio, it would be perfect.

    I find trouble editing it. GoPro Studio treat the photo as a movie, convert it into “mov”, etc. No option to export it as TIFF for example. Weird. Okay, we can do it in LR, including removing the fish-eye effect, but the main reason using protune is to max out the capture and GPS is the only way to go (CMIIW).


    • Hey Fadil – you’re right, it’s not optimized for photo editing really, unfortunately. I typically use Photoshop or Lightroom which also has built in fish-eye reduction, as you already know. I find the editing tools are much better catered towards photo in LR

      • Fadil

        Yes, finally I do with LR too as with my other photos. By the way, the resulting JPEG from Hero 4 is somewhat to ‘clean/plasticky’. It seems the manufacturer applies too much noise reduction

        • You can try turning the sharpening down. Sharpening and noise reduction go hand in hand so when you reduce one you’re also reducing the other.

  • Justin

    @abekislevitz:disqus I have just recently purchased a GoPro 4 Silver. I’ve had a GoPro 2 forever and loved it. I do mostly mounted video shots on Cars. We do everything from mountain drives to track days. Anyways, I am getting a ridiculous amount of motion artifacts in all of my footage especially from dark to light like from leafless trees and the shadows from it.This is made worse after being compressed. I use Premiere for editing and know it pretty good but when I say, upload it to youtube it is almost not worth viewing. I’ve already done a ton of research on this and have tried so many different export and shooting options I could scream. Any advice would be great. Thanks

    • Jacob van Beusichem

      Not sure if this is what you are talking about, but consider getting a neutral density filter, they help get rid of the weird jello shaky effect that happens while the camera is on something shaky, like a drone. Not sure if that’s the problem you were having, but just look them up. http://polarprofilters.com/shop/GoProNDfilterHero4

  • No way guys with the new firmware update this makes this article way outdated

  • Isaac

    Hi, do you happen to know if there is a quality increase in still image quality from the GoPro Hero 3 Silver to the newer generation GoPro Hero 4? I do own a GoPro Hero 3 Silver and to be honest, still images taken under full daylight do show strong jpg compression artifacts…

  • TeddW

    Hi Abe! In taking video of my son’s ice hockey game form a fixed POV, I find that the video of any fast left-right action is quite blurry. Even large uniform numbers on the players are illegible. If I was making an analogy to a still camera, I would say the shutter speed is far too low. What settings would you recommend for the hero 4 black?

    • There’s not a whole lot you can do to get faster exposure times. You could experiment with dropping the EV comp in the video so the video is slightly under exposed. That’ll shorten the exposure times.

  • Caroline

    I shoot a time lapse of a sunset for 30 min, but I couldn’t see the sun at all. My iPhone was able to capture it via time lapse mode. Which settings on gopro do I need to change? Should I change the ISO settings? Thanks- Caroline

    • Hey Caroline, I’m not totally sure what you mean – was the sun/sky blown out? The GoPro has a much wider field of view than your iPhone so the GoPro was probably taking exposure for the whole scene which more than likely included some dark ground. You could try pointing the camera directly at the sun and turn on spot meter. That way the camera will look to the center of the frame for exposure.

  • SuperDoge

    Why some of my photos come like magenta/green…. really annoying.

    • Not sure what you’re talking about, could you post one of them here?

      • SuperDoge

        I guess the sensor was damaged, but called GoPro to get a new one… Now I can capture great photos like this one. 😀

        • Robert

          bro what settings you use for this?

          • SuperDoge

            Protune, -01 Exposure.
            Edited with VSCO + Snapseed.

  • Neil Stewart

    hi there. I have the hero 4 black and want to know all the settings to photo the milky way?

    • Hey Neil, it will be tough to capture the milky way unless you’re in a really really dark area. Unfortunately the ISO just doesn’t go all that high in the GoPro (I’m usually shooting at around 2000-3000 ISO on my DSLR to get a good milky way shot even in the darkest areas of the country). But if you want to get close shoot 30 sec exposures with the highest ISO – 800

  • Piotr Walasek

    Hi ABE! I watch pictures made GOPRO on the internet and I see that something is wrong with my camera. I have Black 4 and my pics are looks like they are with added pastel effect on. Could you please advice what I am doing wrong in the setting? Or maybe camera is broken?

    • Interesting. That pastel effect is a combination of the noise reduction and the sharpening. You could try shooting with ProTune and test out various levels of sharpening. I always shoot in low and add my sharpening in post.

  • Levan Khatiashvili

    While shooting burst mode 30/1, pictures are blurry, what am i doing wrong can you tell me?

    • Are you shooting indoors or in lowlight? Even 30 photos in 1 second can yield pretty long exposure times (1/30th of a second) which definitely can give motion blur if you’re not steady at lower lights. If you’re outdoors it should be crisp and fine.

      • Levan Khatiashvili

        I have not tried outdoors yet, i hope it will work fine outdoors, i want to shoot some motion, cliff jumping and stuff like that.

  • Pingback: For more advanced users….. | robbogopro()

  • mahdi

    Hi Abe,

    I have problem taking photos with my Hero4 , once i have a quick movement the photo is simply ALL BLURY !! What can I do to sort it out ?? I had a nice adventures day and it was so disappointing to see the pictures be like that

    • Are you taking the photos indoors or at low light? The GoPro doesn’t handle that too well. I would try outside in sunlight and they should all be nice and crisp

  • Bianca S

    Hey there! Great article by the way. It really solidified my decision to get a GoPro Hero 4, but the only question that remains is: which one? Silver or Black? I’ve never owned a GoPro before and I’m rather interested in taking night pictures/using night lapse. The Black Edition doesn’t have the built-in-touch display, but does make up for it with the whole 4k30. The Silver Edition does have the built-in-touch display but lacks that super crisp picture quality, even though it still has 1080p60, and is relatively cheaper than the Black Edition.
    Sorry for the rambling, but I was wondering, since the Black Edition boasts about the 4k30, does that also apply to night lapse/night photos? I’m familiar with photography, owning a Canon 60D, and adding a GoPro to my collection of cameras would be sweet. The question is, which one? What do you guys think?

    • Hey Bianca,

      I think the Silver is a great model to go with. It doesn’t have 4K-30 but it does have 2.7K-30 which is still higher than 1080 and overall a very sharp mode. The photo quality between the two cameras is identical, so the night mode will work the same in both.

  • Biggie

    Is there any way to capture 5 still images per second on a drone?

    • Hey biggie, I believe one way to do this could be to switch the camera to continuous photo on 5/sec, then connect the camera to app with wifi. You might be able to start the continuous photo and have it go until it has to buffer and then potentially go again? Not sure – give it a go!

  • Andres A

    Hi there Abe, I was wondering if you teach people how to break things down when it comes to post production? I’ve heard that you’ve been at the GoPro Film School, do you know if in the future you will do something like that again? Maybe in the Bay Area? like a class where you could teach people to learn from your expertise, I would pay for that! I would like to learn from the creative mind behind GoPro’s media team. You’ve been an inspiration! and i hope to see more of your awesome videos.

    • Hey Andres, that’s a great idea. I’ll be sure to announce if I ever do something like that.

      • Andres A

        Thanks for responding Abe! also was wondering if GoPro does public tours inside the office? Would be sick to go and meet you in person! and maybe get my gopro autographed by you. 🙂

  • Andy Adams

    I have a GP4 silver and noticed that the file sizes for a standard photo are typically 4-5MB, but are no more than 3MB in any of the burst/lapse modes. I have not noticed the quality being much worse, and I guess a reduced file size would make sense due to the quantity of data captured. However, I have not seen this discussed anywhere. Just wanted to check I had not missed a setting somewhere.

    • Yeah there’s a couple different flows for photo capture. When it goes to the faster ones it has a reduced depth for the photo, which isn’t usually noticeable.

  • Misha Kessler

    Abe, random question for an Everest trip– I can’t find any stats for battery life in Night Lapse mode. Understanding this is hugely dependent on the exposure and interval times, do you have any ballpark estimates of battery life for night sky/stars? (The lower the ISO, the better, so I assume 30 second exposure, continuous interval.)

    • You probably won’t be getting more than 2 hours on a standard battery. I would look at investing in a couple cheap external USB batteries – that’s what I use for all night lapses. You can keep the camera plugged in all night if you use either a frame or the skeleton housing.

      • Misha Kessler

        Perfect, thanks Abe! I was researching some more and realized the same — I have a 14,400 mAh Anker that I could use which would easily help it last through the night. Only concern is that I’ll be on the tail end of monsoon season, so waterproofing is likely necessary. We shall see. Thanks again!

        • Ah, yeah – you could try the GoPro battery bacpac (which you can waterproof) but even then I wouldn’t expect more than 4 hours.

  • Zed

    Really nice article.
    Am only planning to buy one. Never used one before. Tell me, can I plan to use the Gopro in lieu of my Nikon to take the usual tourist pictures – you know in front of monuments etc? Thanks

    • You certainly can, just make sure you use the screen to see what sort of field of view you’re getting.

  • Savan

    @abekislevitz:disqus Can you make a thread on best quality export options from GoPro studio for Youtube? Also, I have few questions regarding the Burst mode. Do I get better results by keeping WB on Native and post edit in Light room or do I get best results by keeping it Auto and then post edit? In short, which one do you think gives me better quality after post editing(color correction/contrast/saturation); Native or Auto // GoPro Color or Flat?

    Thank you in advance.

  • Nat

    Hi Abe, i am from hong kong. just bought a hero4 silver. the meteor shower tends to peak around August 12-13 in hong kong.
    i am so excited to try my cam for this. would you please kindly advise me what function should i use and how to set for the best video.
    Thanks in advance.

  • Anthony Swiecicki

    Hey man! Thanks for the tips on long exposure photos. Last night I took this shot of the Perseid meteor shower and Milky Way.


  • Luca Puggioni

    Hi Abe, really great article, i just have a doubt.. when you talk about “composite from 5 photos” what do you mean ? Can you explain it ? Thank you so much, Luca

  • Pingback: Settings for recording a bands gig - GoPro Forum, Classifieds and Support()

  • Alex

    Hi Abe,
    I’m in dificulties with current project and really hope to get your advise asap.
    I started a timelaps on a construction site with my hero3 silver at 8 mp medium; fov 3200×2400
    Everyrhing was perfect until the moment my gopro broke (electrical issue from the external power).
    I just bought hero4 silver which does not have same picture settings. To keep the same image proportion i can only use 12mp (4000×3000) which i can resize after BUT the fov now is wide, not medium like before…and thats something i can’t correct, so the second part of my timelaps will be different I guess? Do you hane idea how to solve this?
    Thank you very much

  • Pingback: Need help get a good setting.. - GoPro Forum, Classifieds and Support()

  • Anand Iyer

    Hi Abe. Love your site. Very educational. I do have a question for you on what settings to use on my soon to be purchased GoPro 4 Silver. I’m travelling to the arctic circle in Northern Norway in January. I’m planning on snorkelling with Killer Whales up there and want to get the best quality video and photos as possible in the water. There won’t be a crazy amount of sunlight since there is only 3 hours of daylight a day in January.

    Here is a reference video of what kind of light and water i’ll be dealing with.

    Any recommendations on what settings i should be using on the gopro 4 silver?


  • carlos rios

    In regards to the camp fire photo. that is an example of a longer exposed photo. would your “go to Pro tune night settings” make that same photo look less blurry. i ask because i took some photos with friends in a dim hotel room as we were getting ready for a wedding and all the photos came out really blurry. (i was using regular photo mode, it was before reading your articles).

    i just want to make sure that the above go to night settings would have most likely solved my problem. if so, at what cost? i mean what would happen if i used the night settings while at the lake or beach?

  • Edin

    Hi Abe. I really like your work and understand why you jealousley keeping secret of your workflow. Your desaturated combination of aqua and orange combination is amazing. This is my bad try to get your result 🙁

    Please make video on YT with your edit proces Thank you

  • Edin

    Hi Abe. I really like your work and understand why you jealousley keeping secret of your workflow. These desaturated combination of aqua and orange combination. This is my bad try to get your result 🙁

  • Joby Varghese

    Hello Abe, after the latest update, when i try to capture photos with time-lapse mode, i can’t get the captured files as single photos. It comes as a time-lapse video. Guess it automatically makes it a video. Is there a way to change this? Please help..

    • You must be accidentally recording in video time lapse mode. Make sure you switch over to multi-shot photo mode, and then switch from burst to photo time lapse. Video time lapse is under video.

  • Edin

    Abe where am I wrong. Please give me a hint

    • I think this looks rad! Every photo is different – there’s no ‘right way’ – just make it look cool, which this looks cool to me! Nice work!

      • Edin

        Thank you for support. I am still working on breaking your magic photoshop workflow 😉

  • Paco

    I get blurred pictures in my hero 4 silver. I leave it taking pictures every 1 sec. And when I pass with a motorcycle it is blurred (the motorcycle). What should I do?
    I see pictres on the internet where the water drops are perfectly defined how the he’ll do they do it?

  • Juan Antonio

    Hey Abe, yesterday night I decided to expermient making some night time lapse. I used this settings: shutter-30sec, continuous interval, 12MP Wide, WB 6500K, GoPro Color, ISO 800 and medium sharpness. I just shot the first one and left it there and I just returned to change the battery but when I saw the photos I got this, any tip for future time lapses?? thanks and I will try your posted settings.

    • Zachary

      Probably too late, but this is a result of too much light pollution in the area you tried to take this in. When there is a lot of light pollution in the sky and you run a long exposure shot, the result will come out over exposed. If you want to shoot stars you have to do it somewhere where there is no light pollution at all. Go out to the middle of no where, pitch black, far away from cities and try again. Good luck!

  • Dennis Hansen

    Does you always use Night lapse with ProTune ON? If I want to capture the sundown or sunrise, what settings would you use then?
    Does you have any recommandations for the attached file? The italics text is if the setting is only in the situations, where you have to test the settings in the given situation.

    • Dennis Hansen

      The attachtment

  • vlatkish

    Hi, I have a Hero4 Black and I’ve noticed it takes really bad photos
    even when trying to keep it still or put it down so there’s no shaking
    or anything. There can’t be any movement going on, holding it or in
    front (like if I took a picture of you hanging from the tree there),
    otherwise the picture is blurry as hell. This is only while taking
    photos, videos are okay. Do you maybe know the reason for this and how
    to fix it? Thanks!

    • vlatkish

      Bad copy/paste there sorry about that. But I’ve been aksing about this around with no help. Basicly, Hero4 Black, really blurry pictures while taking photos of something in motion, or if slightly shaking the camera…please advise!

  • Paco

    I have a Hero 4 Siver. When I go out to ride my motorcycle I leave the camera on the floor with a tripod. I use time lapse photos every 1 sec. but I dont know why it doesnt appear really clear. I mean the motorcycle is a little bit blurred. I want the pictures like the ones on the website with the mud clear in the air without being blurred. CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW I SHOUL DO IT? THE BEST SETTINGS? ISO, PROTUNE, WHITE BALANCE…?
    Thank you.

  • Pingback: White balance question (Hero +) - GoPro Forum, Classifieds and Support()

  • Mark

    Yo Abe. Long time no see but major respect to all your work and achievements. I saw you shoot a mountain bike shot during the daytime where the background was blurred but your bike was in focus. Probs chest mount. I tried to do night lapse to have a two second exposure to blur the background but the photo came out all white. What settings would you recommend to get that blurry background look?

    • Mark

      shit, just read i should maybe lower the iso limit. Am I on track here? Is night lapse overkill and just use the regular interval shot with the lowest iso?

      • Yeah, that should do the trick. You can use nightlapse but set the exposure to auto instead of 2 sec. Try a couple ISO limits, if it’s a dark forest and you’re cruising fast enough 400 ISO should work

  • Theresa Tran

    Hi Abe! Thanks for yew helpful post 🙂 what were your settings for your last time lapse photo of the clouds over the lake at sunset? Thank you!

  • Pingback: recommend me some nightlapse settings - GoPro Forum, Classifieds and Support()

  • Ryan Ravinsky

    if my GoPro is synced to the app, can i change the exposure settings while the camera is taking a Night Lapse series? I want to start the Night Lapse at about 3 am and get the stars, then the mountain range at sunrise as the sun is coming up. Or should i just start and stop, then adjust the exposure and start a new series as dawn approaches. Then, how would i try to make the stitched video as seamless as possible.


  • Liam

    Trying to capture swim/run pictures with time laps. Setting of a picture every 0.5sec ISO set at the lowest limit on GoPro hero 5. What else can I do to reduce blur?

  • Richard Crannell

    Hi Abe, I have a Hero 4 Black. I bought the Karman Grip and like it but something changed. Now when I turn on the Grip and the camera comes on, after a second or so, the camera goes into the charging mode. So I can’t use it. When I turn off the Grip, the camera reverts back into a the normal operating mode. So, I am not able to use the camera with the Grip on. Can you tell me how to get both to work together again?

  • Hung Nguyen

    @abekislevitz:disqus I see a mistake here “I recommend using 0.5 photos/sec (2 photos per second), taking around 5 sec worth of photos”. It should be 0.5sec/photo

  • Pingback: Hiểu về Photo trên Hero4 – Hùngです()

  • Glenn Cooper


    Great blog by the way. I’m struggling trying to get some good night shots of the stars. We’re in (I thought) a relatively sparse house with little light polution, but this is the best I can get on night mode at 30s. I would have thought a lot more would have been picked up.

    Any idea where I’m going wrong?

    Thanks in advance


  • Afzaal

    Hi abe
    Hope u r in good health
    I got hero4 silver
    Kindly suggest me best settings for wingshooting…

  • Pingback: Using GoPro Hero4 For Photography - Eddison Media()